A Travellerspoint blog

July 2010

Franz and Nina

Here live Portos and Vasilisa

semi-overcast 22 °C

We all: Roger, mom, Andre and me were invited to lunch to Nina and Franz in their lovely old house in Hutteldorf.
We went there by train

Nina prepared special (too complicated to explain) levels-salad, it was lotsa champagne and tasty cheeses, then it was grilled wings, coffee and yea, cackes. We had prolonged meal and nice chat. Our company is multilingual, each one speaks 2-3 languages, but common is only English.

House is big, but Franz and Nina live at 1st (ground) floor. They have 2 cats - Portos and Vasilisa. Cats are brothers. When you coming from the street - you can see the sign in the window "Here live Portos and Vasilisa".

This is Portos.
At the second floor lives mother of Franz.
House has very interesting history, I'd like to tell it here, but don't want to do it without permission.

Posted by vanessa 16:04 Archived in Austria Comments (0)


“I have to admit I’m Viennese to the core”

rain 21 °C

Gustav Mahler (1860 – 1911), regarded as a genius of the fin de siècle , was an outstanding composer, musician and conductor, talented administrator (director of the Vienna Court Opera) and husband of Alma (most wanted lady of this time).
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of his birth, Austrian Theatre Museum shows great exhibition 11 March 2010 until 3 October 2010.

Gustav Mahler by Emil Orlik (left) and by Auguste Rodin (right)

The secret of Mahler's uniqueness was to combine craft with genius.
Hermann Bahr

Exhibition is perfectly done, clear cut to periods of life with collection of Mahler's photos and briefly biography background. But not the only. It suplies the complete feeling of Vienna of beginning 20th cent, with its style, dresses and salons, with huge building sites (documentary movie of building of Parlament), with sounds of music and almost with the smell of cakes. There are addresses of apartments and cafes, of friend's houses - and most of them are still there!


There are faces of people, who crossed Mahlder's life and their stories; other places in Europe and overseas, where he lived and worked; some masterpiece portraits of Mahler, created by the greatests artists of this time; partiturs and letters with his flying handwriting and music is following you wherever u going. It's possible to speak about this exhibition for longer, but I want to stop right here and mention few things that seem me very special:
1. Book of Peter Vail "Genius Loci" (Петр Вайль, "Гений места") - I can only hope that it's translated to other languages, I have read it in Russian. The book is collection of places in connection with people who lived there, so by P. Vail Vienna=Mahler.
2. Outstanding performance "Alma" - about Mahler's wife Alma, who was very attractive and interesting persone herself. It's performance with no stage, it's running in whole building and you r following actors, moving between time levels and rooms.
3rd is the part of the exhibition, and it's the death mask - kind of things that I personally usually try to avoid. But here it was shown sad, solemnly and beautiful. I just show it to you (the photo below)


Posted by vanessa 03:09 Archived in Austria Comments (1)

30th of July, 2010

Spanish Riding School of Vienna and Vienneze Bronze Objects - which are NO toys!

rain 21 °C

Spanish Riding School of Vienna is a traditional riding school which exists from 16th century. I don't understand much in horses, so wasn't interested to go to performance, but being in area of Hofburg I always passing near, and I like to watch the preparations and after-show scenes.


Today I'm going to exhibition of Mahler in Theatre Museum. On the way I mentioned window of little store which saled miniature bronze sculptures and prints (cityscapes of Vienna).

There are many lovely sceenes.

The frog is bronze, but the fly is real (I think so). It's not clear if the fly dead while seeing the frog or it was killed for advance and composed there for better understanding of the subject. Anyway, these miniature bronzes are beautiful, I have a weakness to little objects. And they are NO toys, as it was mentioned in certificate.


Soon in Vienna - Venetian Heads

Posted by vanessa 03:03 Archived in Austria Comments (0)



rain 23 °C

We have NEW rollerblades!
:-D That is what we call S H O P P I N G !

Posted by vanessa 15:19 Archived in Austria Comments (3)


City market, exists since the 16th century.

semi-overcast 20 °C

Naschmarkt is a biggest inner market in Vienna, exists since 16th cent (some says since 18th). Locals call it the “city’s stomach”. You can buy everything to do with food, there r also some delicatessen favourites and some goods as well.

Upper line, from left to right they are:
sweet cherry > this weird squeezed pink balls are special kind of peaches > yellow rugby - mango.
Bottom line: left corner is pitaya - actually, it's fruit of cactus. Then carambola - I like the shape (cut like stars) and the taste. Two next purple - don't know what! And the last, looks like Kranke Igel (sick hedgehog), is rambutan

On the photo above (left to right): mango, then probably papaya and melon ( I'm not sure) and at bottom line - really exotic fruits. Tamarinde (the name only) I recognise from books of Marquez. Physalis - I know as decorative flower, never thought to taste it.

JACK FROCHT - was ist das?

Beautiful pumpkins.

And those bottles below, each of them has different taste and flavor. What do you think they are? It's vinegar(s)! There are about 100 (or more?) different vinegars in this store. I thought that after famous Borough Market in London (delicatessen market) nothing can amase me! But I was wrong!

There r not only food-stores but cafe and restaurnats of all kinds u can wish. Many ppl have lunch-break there.

When your eyes are addapted to all this food-carnival you suddenly may mention the river (once used for transportation of goods to Naschmarkt) and beautiful architecture around.


You probably will b surprised if I'd say that there are not yet my favorite buildings in Naschmarkt area. There are few real gems, they aren't appear for silly reason - I photographed them so much in previews years, that was bored to do it once again!

There r few more photos of this area in doors and windows of Vienna

Posted by vanessa 10:51 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Weekend, 24-25/07/2010

Stormy wind and even short rains! Great!

rain 20 °C

July 24, 2010

The weather changed from oven-heath to cool and transparent. First, stormy wind blew out all the hot air. Wind continued blowing until sky got covered with layers of clouds. Clouds of various tones from sugar-white and ligt-blue to dark-gray and ocean-blue. Beautiful! I'm so happy to receive the rest from the heath!
The single dissapoint is no rollerblades and no swimming - it's too windy. But we can accept.

So, I wasn't doing much today. Updated this blog at the morning, then did some grossery-shopping and cooking (Roger said "delicious") and now Andre & me plan to go out, to pass through few rollerblade-stores in the neighbourhood. We both need (2buy) new rollerblades. His pair already survived few serious fixes, mine begun to go to pieces too. Well, I'm with same pair for about 10 years, only updated wheels. Andre rolls on his about 5 years, but plastic on his boots begun to crash. Thanks to his (A) technical skills both pairs are in use yet. He sewed the bursted plastic of boots with fishing line and now they (boots) even look designed

July 24, 2010

Today helicopter landed into our courtyard. It was so close to the window that in (full size) photo you can see the pilot!

Posted by vanessa 16:01 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Angelica & Gabriel

Afternoon we have been visiting our friend Angelica and her lovely boy Gabriel (=Papiel)

sunny 28 °C

Angelica just moved to new (rented) apartment a month ago, so we came to see them and their new place.

Now she lives in lovely old building with very high ceiling, bright livingroom, long kitchen and bedroom which facing the neighbour's window (may close curtain!).

I liked the staircase with windows and the lettering "Mezzanin" at the entrance to the 2nd floor (once whole the building was belonged to one family and entrance to mezzanine was separated with huge door).

When she rented this apartment, all walls were painted in pink(!) color, and, I can guess, there were some more troubles - as it's really old house. Tiny Angelica made the renovation alone (Fernando was in Mexico), while working and caressing Gabriel. I still dont understand how she sucsessed to do that - it's about 5m tall, but she said she has a very tall ladder! Bravo!!!

Those are Angelica & Gabriel

and here is mom & son once again - moving!
On photos below - Andre and Gabriel are reading (click to enlarge)

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Posted by vanessa 23:44 Archived in Austria Comments (1)

Leopold Museum

sunny 28 °C

MQ - Museum Quarter, opened in 2001. It's big area in very central place, that combines excellent museums, place for rest and for socialising, great location for festivals and events.



I was in this beautiful Museum several times and never mentioned who is this Leopold, after whom the museum named. I was quite surprised to know that it's neither the royal family member and nor famous musician or politican. Rudolf Leopold, 1925-2010 was a real guy, the collector, thanks to whom we can see the greatest collection of paintings of Egon Schiele, Klimt, Moser and other brilliant artists of beginning 20th century. Actually he passed a month ago, in June 2010. Better later then never, here he is


I want to publish here few pieces from his collection. There r not definately the most famous, but those that touched me and those which I liked especially. Some were new for me and others I already have seen before.

The Hope, 1930

Girl with white hat, 1935

Ringelblumen, 1909

Self-Portrait with Chinese Plant, 1912

Death and Life, 1910/1915

Klimt is probably the most famous (also out of Austria) Viennise artist of 1st half 20th century. He is probably the most stylish, elite and erotic one. It's weird disgarmony between absolute beauty of his paintings and his look (see photo below) and life-story, full of illness and tradegy.

I can paint and draw. I believe this myself and a few other people say that they believe this too. But I'm not certain of whether it's true.
Gustav Klimt

Pig Market, 1934

Posted by vanessa 07:30 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

News From Vienna

sunny 35 °C

What's new in Vienna:

it's very hot again. Last days all were over 30C, and today it's getting about 35C. I feel very tired at evenings - this heath "eats" all my energy and at eveings I have completely "empty battery". Animals also lost mind from the heath - they behave weird and unsafe (for themselves). Couple of days ago I have seen a crow, making SPA-treatment in the grass. Unfortunatelly I didnt have camera with me, so, here is a description of seen: Crow set very low on the ground with opened beak and absolutelly "glassy" eyes; her wings were widely opened asides, and each feather was standing up separatelly. I guess it was sitting on ant heap - crows like to clean themselves in weird ways. All crow's look was exactly like people use to look on posters of SPA at time of treatment. Grass and flowers on the island became yellow in parts.
Only Austrians are not melting like I do, they still keep smiling on their toned faces and most of them look so fresh and constantly elegant like they right now were producted in ice-cream factory!
BTW, about an ice-cream ...below!


International AIDS Conference is held in Vienna 18-23 July.

Alberina shows 4 exhibitions: 1) Monet to Baselitz - fascinating masterpeaces from more than 130 years of art history, from Impressionism to the most recent present. 2) Heinrich Kühn - father of art photography around 1900. 3) "Bestiarium" by American artist Walton Ford (born in 1960) - illustration-style of anormous size. Pretty awful, I have to say. 4) Printz of Alex Katz who said ranks among today’s most important US artists. - personally I dont like this kind of art. Underline: 2 great exhibitions and 2 missy, but it's just my personal taste.
Film Festival in front of the Rathous (City Hall). Each night a different film connected to operas is presented on the collosal screen. There is no entrance fee and a collection of different international cuisines is pampering your stomach.

Posted by vanessa 08:21 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Michaelerkirche, ice-cream and graffiti

sunny 30 °C



When "the culture program" was done, we (Andre, my mom & myself) met Roger in the center and we all went to eat ice-cream.
I'm a big fan of Italian ice-cream (Italian i mean = in Italy), and have some expirience with ice-cream in other countries, includes Austria.
I have to consider that Zanoni & Zanoni is the best ice-cream I have ever eat in Vienna and I'm glad to reccomend it to you. Once you r in Vienna and thinknin ice-cream - go on it!

Zanoni & Zanoni Gelateria,
1, Am Lugeck (just down Rotenturmstrasse from Schwedenplatz towards the Stephansdom)

GRAFFITI - A walk along the banks of the Danube.

After ice-cream attack we walked in the city. It was very hot and we went down to the river.
Riverbank was shade and there were few new art-pieces. I luv street-art and have a collection of photos from Vienna, London, Berlin, Barcelona, Tel Aviv, Prague and other places which I visited, where graffity caught my eye.


Posted by vanessa 11:19 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Doors and windows

New shots - addition to my collection of doors & windows


Art Nouveau is a movement and style of art, architecture and applied art—especially the decorative arts—that peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century (1890–1905).

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The name 'Art Nouveau' is French for 'new art'. It is also known as Jugendstil, German for 'youth style', named after the magazine Jugend, which promoted it, and in Italy, Stile Liberty from the department store in London, Liberty & Co., which popularised the style. Art Nouveau came as a reaction to academic art of the 19th century, it is characterized by organic, especially floral and other plant-inspired motifs, as well as highly stylized, flowing curvilinear forms. Art Nouveau is an approach to design according to which artists should work on everything from architecture to furniture, making art part of everyday life. It's mistake to think that whole Hitzing is built in Jugendstil, it's just my favorite, so you can see many examples in this blog.

The window with bat.


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At 1st line: Stephan Kirche (left) and Restaurant zum Basilisk - man, i you don't yet listened story of Basilisk from me - you have to!
Horse on the right of the 2nd line - Spanish Riding School.
And at the bottom (left), this beautiful window with girls is in 7th district of Vienna.

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Next line (down):
Photo with yellow wall - it's window of heurige - an Austrian equivalent of tavern, where you can drink home-made young wine. Actually, "Heurige" means new wine. It's a bit tricky - when you drink you don't feel alcohol, it's so light and refreshing! Then.. when you wnat to stand up ... u somehow cant do.
The second - blue wave on white wall is the buildng near Augarten.
Third I just like. Don't remember where it is exactly.

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Here (from left to right):
"Rebhuhn" pub at Berggasse 24,
Hundertwasser's house
and view from the window of Clock Museum.

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Posted by vanessa 12:10 Archived in Austria Comments (0)


sunny 27 °C

Hietzing is the neigbourhood near Schönbrunn Palace. 1st mentioned in 12th century as area of fields, vineyards and cemetery, and it staid wine-making place for next 500 years, until turn into farmland in mid 17th century. After two Turkish siege (once in 16th and then in 17th cent) Hietzing was almost completely depopulated. The construction of the castle Schoenbrunn eventually led to the great BOOM of the former village Hietzing. The proximity of the Imperial Court brought with it strong construction activity, but it was yet to create quarters for aristocrats and officials who desired to live near the Royal Family.

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  • Click on photo to enlarge.

Posted by vanessa 12:08 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

The second day of cool weather!

more Vienna of Wagner (architect, not a musician!), ice-cream from "Fresh Wind" and just a walk around.

semi-overcast 23 °C

The second day of nice weather. I'm so happy for this little rest that dont mind even stormy wind and some rains that washed Vienna. We finally could breath for a while. Yesterday wind was 54km/hr and rollerblading was impossible. Today it got better and I rolled on the island. I met a rabbit in my way! He was young, with big head and perfectly white ass.
Afternoon we spent in the city with Andre and mom.

loved the sculpture of this serious guy who s keeping corner of the building on his back

Villas by Otto Wagner near MeteoStation in Hohe Warte

Also in Hohe Warte

Then, in the way to center, we were greeted with any political (? I'm not sure) movement, which members devided little yellow whirligigs and ice-cream(!!!). In their broshures was written the slogan: "Fresh Wind needed! Vienna is the perfect place, but let's make it better". We licked ice-cream and mentioned that it was not really clear - why need to improve place which is perfect already.

Just in two steps from the Rathous (click to enlarge)

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Posted by vanessa 12:09 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Rain, rain, rain again!

Kirche "Zum Helligen Geist" in Pfarre Schmeltz, 15th District

storm 18 °C

After 2 weeks of over +30C heath there r finally cool weather. Wind blew out sun and brought some rainy clouds instead. I enjoy it very much! :-D

Morning was rainy and I kept busy with home-keeping. At the noon rain relaxed and we (mom, Roger and myself) went to see Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) church in 15th district. My mom knows that I love this architecture style very much and always pays attention on interesting buildings, keeping them in mind to show me them later.

This Catolic church is built by Slovakian architect Plecnik, student of famous Otto Wagner. At this time most habbitans of Schmelz Neigbourhood had Slovakian origin (now it changed).
The main element of the interior is big (taking whole the wall) mozaic.

At the entrance we have seen the memorial board dedicated to 1st and 2nd WW citizents who lived in the neighbourhood. It was about 20 ppl who fall in WWI and 4 more added between 1941-45.

This is 15th district, Schmeltz neighbourhood.

Fragment with window


The door of the building was opened and I entered.

ceramic wall downstairs


And here is Hundertwasser Platz!
It's not the most beautiful square in Vienna, but Hundertwasser is just The Greatest Maestro of Vienna (My appologise to Klimt, Shille and Otto Wagner who are also great!)
Later, just against the entrance into underground, i was stopped with the glance ... OMG...


Beautiful door, BTW.
And great that they dare to renovate. But really funny painting!


Posted by vanessa 12:22 Archived in Austria Comments (0)

Donauinsel (Danube Island)

Place of rollerblading, cycling, swimming, canoeing, water-skiing, eating, drinking, dancing, tunning (very popular nude beaches), fishing, jumping from the bridge to the water, etc. etc. etc. Well-known for international Musc Festivals at summer.

32 °C

It's time to tell you about Donauinsel.

The Donauinsel (Danube Island) is a long, narrow artifical island, between the Danube river and the parallel excavated channel Neue Donau ("New Danube"). The island is 21km in length. The main purpose of the island however is to be part of Vienna's highly sophisticated flood protection system. As river Danube crosses the city, this has constantly been a concern for hundreds of years. Also river originallty took curve loop which was additional trouble for navigation. Danube is known for intensive water-traffic.

In 1970, a new plan was conceived and soon executed: digging an additional channel and using the spoil to build up the remaining strip of land between the straightened bed from the 19th century flood defence schemes and the newly created one. The new channel is called the Neue Donau (New Danube). The works were finished in 1988.




Nudity is natural. Donauinsel Nudity means freedom, happiness and good health. Many people bring to FKK areas (official nude beaches) their families, kids and dogs. It's right place for socialising, taking sunbathes and swimming. Other people are reading or feeding birds, scating or cycling, fishing, etc.


The island is house of open air Donauinselfest (Music Festival)- Europe's biggest event of this kind. Usually lasts 3 days (weekend) in June. The music styles vary from stage to stage, and there are enourmous amount of stages on the island. All this is free of charge. I had oportunity to be in this festival twice, it impressive event. They say it hosts about 3 mln visitors. Madonna gave her first concert in Vienna there in front of an impressive crowd of 57,000. There are also food, beers and fireworks.


Donauinsel is green zone, located just inside the city; it's very near metro stations, train path and even some industry. But if you come early enough, you have a chance to meet there society of wild animals (hares/ wild rabbits, beavers, hedgehogs, etc)...

The tree, damaged by beaver.

... variety of birds (magpie, pheasant, kurpatka, songbirds) and water-chickens (swans, ducks, herens, gulls, etc.),

diffferent kinds of frogs, snakes, many interesting insects (big bugs and beautiful butterflies, dragonflies and, as it appeared last year, awful mosquitos!)

I mentioned few herbs (buckthorn, dog rose, linden) and we even collected some St John's wort this year. There are bushes of cornel and an amazing cover of wild flowers.

Sea Buckthorn Berries (oblepiha)

Posted by vanessa 15:16 Archived in Austria Tagged bridges animals birds danube vienna nature austria ecotourism donauinsel danube_island Comments (1)

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